Tokyo

We started in Tokyo, taking a few days before starting to travel around Japan to visit relatives and generally take a look around. I was last in Tokyo 5 years ago and I realised just before we went that I have only ever visited Japan in the summer so I am used to heat, humidity, and lots of cicadas, it was a revelation to visit in the autumn when the weather was just right, not too hot or cool. I definitely recommend visiting at this time of year.

One of the things that was happening while we were in Tokyo was Culture Day which is held on what used to be celebrated as the Meiji Emperor’s birthday, so there were lots of dignitaries, singing, dancing, flower arranging, and generally people having a good time at the Meiji Shrine. Little children were dressed up for the Shichi-Go-San festival where children who are three, five, and seven are celebrated.

View of Tokyo Tower from the Mori Tower in Roppongi Hills.

Mount Fuji at sunset!

We stayed in Asakasa (not to be confused with Asakusa!) which I know quite well, it is quite a handy area for transport and supermarkets.

We went to the Ghibli Museum, it is entertaining if you are a fan of the studio’s films. Note though that you can get much better Ghibli merchandise elsewhere, e.g. Kiddy Land. Most Tokyo guides say that tourists need to buy their tickets in advance through a travel agency, however you can buy tickets for almost half the price when in Japan from the ticket machine in any Lawson although you would need to be able to read Japanese or have a friend to help though as I don’t think the machine had any bilingual options.

Always a highlight of visiting Japan is seeing my relatives, we went to the house of my great-aunt who is in her late 90s but as lively and funny as ever. My sister and I are so much taller than her! We also visit the family grave with flowers and incense and we pour water over the headstones.

Recommended
We did a lot of things when in Tokyo and this is a list of a few places that we particularly enjoyed or found useful. These are all places that I will be returning to on my next visit. All the places I have mentioned I have put on this Google map.

Aoyama Book Centre, Omotesando
A large bookshop laid out on one level, lots of art and design books and magazines. Lots of room for browsing. My favourite of the bookstores that we visited in Tokyo. It is a bit hard to find from the street so check a map before you go. The entrance is down a side street and down an escalator. There is a glass wall through which you can see the shop and the door is to the right of this. Also nearby is the Prada Building and other interesting buildings and window displays.

Aranzi Aronzo shop, Daikanyama
A little shop packed with Aranzi Aronzo bags, mugs, fabric, etc.
Closed on Wednesdays.

A-Z Cafe, Omotesando
We loved this place! Yoshitomo Nara decorated cafe. Good cocktails, very good food. Not too far from Kiddy Land and the Aoyama Book Center.

Bic Camera, Shibuya
A big superstore that sells cameras, gadgets, bikes etc, with branches around Japan but the Shibuya one is handy.

Depachika
This is the name for the food floors in the basements of the department stores (am I spelling it right? I have only ever heard it, not seen it written). These are amazing places and as a tourist are brilliant because it gives you an opportunity to investigate, buy, and take away a little of everything. Handy ones are the Tokyu Food Show beneath Shibuya Station, Takashimaya Times Square in Shinjuku, and Mitsukoshi in Ginza.

Daikanyama, Ebisu, Naka-Meguro
A calm area with lots of expensive little shops and boutiques (I liked the Aranzi Aronzo shop), the Hillside Terrace architecture idea is interesting, there is also a good bakery in the Hillside complex, we ate at Waffles and Frames.

Freshness Burger, Shibuya, Ebisu
I like the Tofu burgers which are a piece of tofu with avocado on top. Delicious and handy if you need something quick. There are quite a few branches including Ebisu and Shibuya

Kiddy Land, Omotesando
This was such a mind blowing shop for me when I was a kid, it is THE toy shop. I recommend taking the lift to the top and working your way down. It is interesting how much the toy fads change with characters coming and going. At the moment there is a lot of Peanuts stuff.

Mandarake, Shibuya
Manga bookshop.They have everything.

Nippori Fabric Town
The place to shop for fabric. See my Google map for directions. Suggest heading to the main branch of Tomato and then pop into a few of the other shops on your way back to the station. There is also an outlet for Edwin Jeans on the corner as you head back.

Recofan, Shibuya
Good selection of CDs and records. The 100Yen bin is surprisingly good.

Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography, Ebisu
A couple of different exhibitions, we went to a really really good one on Japanese photographers who travelled during the 50s, 60s, and 70s.

Tokyu Hands, Shibuya
There are a couple of branches, I find that the Shibuya branch had the best selection and is very handily placed for other similar shops such as Loft.